Benzoin (Siam) Resinoid 50% TEC

BENZOIN (SIAM) RESINOID 50% TEC

Manufacturer: PAYAN BERTRAND

Botanical name: Styrax tonkinense Craig

Plant part: Gum / Exudate

Country of origin: Laos, Asia

Country of processing: Grasse, France

Extraction method: Solvent extraction

DESCRIPTION

Benzoin is one of the oldest aromatic resins used in perfumery and incense. Siam Benzoin is obtained from the bark of Styrax tonkinensis, a tree native to Southeast Asia, particularly the regions of Laos and Vietnam. The name “Siam” is historical and recalls the ancient trade routes of Southeast Asia. The tree is tapped, and the sap hardens on contact with air, forming resin tears ranging in colour from creamy white to amber yellow. Its use dates back centuries, particularly in incense and balsamic preparations. The name itself derives from the Arabic luban jawi, meaning “frankincense of Java”, which later entered European languages.

This resinoid is processed by Payan Bertrand, the historic fragrance house based in Grasse, the French capital of perfumery, which has been transforming natural raw materials into ingredients for perfumers since the nineteenth century. The raw resin is treated with a solvent to obtain the resinoid, a dense, almost solid material that is difficult to dose in its original form. For this reason, it is supplied diluted to 50% in Natural TEC, an odourless solvent that does not interfere with its olfactory profile and makes the material fluid and easy to weigh.

From a chemical perspective, Siam Benzoin is rich in benzoic acid and its esters, particularly coniferyl benzoate and benzyl benzoate, with appreciable amounts of vanillin. These molecules are responsible for its sweet, creamy, vanilla-like character.

Siam or Sumatra? Our catalogue also includes Sumatra Benzoin Resinoid, which comes from different species (Styrax benzoin) and has a distinct character. Siam is sweeter, creamier and more vanillic, with cocoa-like and powdery nuances, and a clarity that makes it elegant and soft. Sumatra is more balsamic, spicy and smoky, with a cinnamon-like character due to its cinnamic acid esters, making it drier and less gourmand. In short: Siam for sweetness and creaminess, Sumatra for spice and balsamic depth. They can also be used together in a formula to create a more multi-faceted benzoin accord.

PERFUMERY

Siam Benzoin opens with a sweet, vanillic facet, almost creamy, reminiscent of white chocolate and biscuits. Beneath this emerges a balsamic, ambery undertone, with a powdery accent and a subtle hint of warm resin. It lacks the smoky sharpness of other resins, and its greatest strength lies in its roundness. It is a highly tenacious base note, one of the most appreciated natural fixatives, capable of anchoring more volatile materials and prolonging the fragrance trail.

In oriental and ambery compositions, it is a cornerstone: combined with vanilla, labdanum, tonka bean, amber and incense, it builds warm, enveloping bases. In gourmand fragrances, it adds body to caramel, cocoa, coffee and almond, supporting their sweetness with a resinous foundation that prevents the result from becoming cloying. In floral compositions, it rounds off rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and orange blossom, while in woody accords it softens sandalwood, cedarwood and vetiver, tempering their dryness. In chypre and fougère compositions, it blends with oakmoss, patchouli and coumarin to create a softer base. In the opening, alongside red mandarin and bergamot, it helps bridge the citrus top notes with a creamy base.

Dosage can range from finishing touches to several percentage points in oriental or gourmand compositions where it takes centre stage. TEC makes it compatible with ethanol and perfumery bases, although a brief maturation period and cold filtration may be useful to remove any insoluble components.

Olfactory family: Balsamic

Olfactory pyramid: Base note

IFRA 51: 73.333% (Category 4)

COSMETICS

In formulations, Siam Benzoin brings a sense of comfort. Its fragrance of cream, vanilla and warm resin gives the product a soft, reassuring and enveloping character, which consumers associate with care, ritual and pampered skin. It is a base note that remains in the fragrance long after the fresh notes have faded.

It pairs particularly well with body creams and butters, balms, oils, oriental or gourmand-style soaps and hand care products, as well as candles and home fragrances, where it leaves a sweet, warm and persistent trail, ideal for autumn and winter collections. As it is already diluted in TEC, it integrates easily into oil-based phases and fragrances, while an emulsifier is required for aqueous bases.