Stemone™

STEMONE™

Manufacturer: GIVAUDAN

INCI Name: Ethyl Methyl Butyl Ketoxime

Synonyms: Leafy Oxime, Heptoxime

Origin: Aromatic synthesis

DESCRIPTION

Stemone™, produced by Givaudan, is an odorant molecule characterized by a green, fresh, leafy and natural profile, particularly appreciated in perfumery for its ability to bring realism and definition to botanical accords.

Its use is particularly well known in the olfactive reconstruction of fig leaf. Natural fig leaf is not a raw material that can be easily used in modern perfumery: the use of fig leaf extracts is strongly conditioned by issues related to the presence of phototoxic furanocoumarins, including bergapten. For this reason, the characteristic odor of fig leaf is normally reconstructed through a combination of aromatic molecules.

In this type of accord, Stemone™ plays a fundamental role: it reproduces the green, vegetal, fresh and slightly pungent aspect of the fig leaf and stem, while other raw materials can be used to build the milky, creamy, fruity and woody facets associated with fig.

The result is therefore not simply a “fig fruit” note, but a more complete representation of the fig plant, with the characteristic sensation of green leaf, vegetal sap and freshly broken stem.

Givaudan also describes Stemone™ as an excellent modifier of green notes, capable of strengthening them and giving them a more modern character. Its application is therefore not limited to fig: it can also be used to enrich accords of muguet, narcissus, mandarin, grapefruit, blackcurrant and tomato leaf.

PERFUMERY

In perfumery, Stemone™ finds its most characteristic application in the construction of fig and fig leaf accords, but its versatility extends considerably further.

In a fig leaf accord, it can be used to recreate the green, fresh and slightly milky sensation associated with the plant. The leafy character can be further developed through the use of cis-3-Hexenol, green aldehydes, Galbanum and other vegetal materials.

To build a complete fig accord, Stemone™ can instead be combined with milky and creamy materials such as lactones, together with Vanilla, Coumarin, fruity materials and soft woods. In this way, the composition can evolve from the green leaf to the sweet and creamy flesh of the fruit.

It is particularly effective in Mediterranean compositions, where it can be combined with Bergamot, Mandarin, Mastic, Cypress, Olive, Woods, Incense and saline notes to evoke the atmosphere of the Mediterranean landscape.

In green accords, Stemone™ acts as a modifier and can enhance the sensation of fresh vegetation without necessarily introducing a specific botanical note.

Givaudan also indicates it for modifying and enriching notes of Muguet, Narcissus, Mandarin, Grapefruit, Blackcurrant and Tomato.

In blackcurrant, for example, it can accentuate the green and vegetal aspect of the accord, while with tomato it can contribute to recreating the characteristic sensation of freshly broken leaf and stem.

It is also interesting in floral accords, where it can introduce a vegetal nuance that makes the flower feel less abstract and more natural. With Muguet, Narcissus, Jasmine and other floral notes, it can create a contrast between floral luminosity and the freshness of vegetation.

Givaudan indicates an approximate usage level of 0.1–5%, with a declared blotter substantivity of approximately 16 hours. The olfactive effect, however, is strongly dependent on the concentration and structure of the formula.

Olfactory family: Green

Olfactory pyramid: Heart note

IFRA 51: No restriction (category 4)

COSMETICS

In cosmetics, Stemone™ is used as a fragrance ingredient to develop green, fresh, floral, citrus and vegetal compositions.