Orriscience Concrete 8% Irone

ORRISCIENCE CONCRETE 8% IRONE

Manufacturer: FIRMENICH

Botanical name: Iris germanica & Iris pallida

Plant part: Rhizomes

Country of origin: Italy, Morocco, China

Country of manufacturing: France

Extraction method: Steam distillation

DESCRIPTION

Orriscience Concrete 8% Irone by Firmenich is an iris concrete standardised to 8% irone, the molecule responsible for the unmistakable character of iris. It is obtained from the rhizomes of Iris pallida and Iris germanica.

Developed by Firmenich as a modern interpretation of traditional Orris Concrete, it is obtained through an innovative processing method for Iris rhizomes. To allow the irones responsible for its characteristic aroma to fully develop, the roots are left to mature for a period of between two and three years. Distillation of the roots with water or steam produces a “butter”, which is physically separated from the aqueous phase by decantation.

Although Italy was historically the main producer, over recent decades Morocco and China have become important sources of supply. In Italy, iris mainly comes from Tuscany, particularly the Chianti and Pratomagno areas; Moroccan iris comes from the Atlas Mountains, while in China iris originates from Himalayan regions, particularly Sichuan, Xizang and Yunnan.

The product belongs to the Orriscience range, one of Firmenich’s innovations developed to make more efficient use of the olfactory character of Orris, preserving its distinctive facets while making it easier to use in formulations. The 8% Irone version offers a particularly harmonious balance of green, floral, violet, powdery and woody facets.

Irone also has a historical role: by studying its structure at the end of the nineteenth century, chemists Tiemann and Krüger went on to synthesise ionones, paving the way for modern violet perfumery.

In addition to irone, it contains a significant proportion of myristic acid and other fatty components, which give it its characteristic buttery effect. The 8% irone concentration is a technical guarantee: it indicates the concentration of the olfactorily active fraction and allows the product to be dosed consistently from batch to batch.

Also available at 10% in Natural TEC, for easier dosing and improved olfactory diffusion.

PERFUMERY

Powerful and long-lasting. It can be used at higher dosages than traditional iris extracts, giving the composition an impression of extraordinary luxury. Iris is, in fact, the note that evokes quiet elegance more than any other.

Olfactively, the concrete opens with a waxy and buttery facet, followed by notes of powder, violet, root and light woods, with a hint of lipstick and soft leather. It is not a fragrance that shouts: it works through restraint, providing a velvety texture and a powdery depth that remains on the skin for a long time. It is a heart and base note with excellent substantivity.

In floral compositions, it gives structure and refinement to rose, violet, mimosa, jasmine and white flowers, removing any excessive sweetness. In musky and woody compositions, it blends with sandalwood, cedar, vetiver and white musks to create a clean-skin and cashmere effect. In ambery and gourmand compositions, it finds its natural setting alongside vanilla, tonka, almond and benzoin, creating accords of sweet powder and cream.

In leathery and chypre compositions, it softens the harshness of leather, labdanum and oakmoss, while with bergamot and mandarin it creates elegant openings, almost reminiscent of a “tea room”. In its most classic synergies, ionones and methyl ionones enhance its violet facet.

Olfactory family: Floral

Olfactory pyramid: Heart-base note

COSMETICS

In formulation, iris has a clear role: enhancing the perception of value. Just a trace is enough for a product to stop feeling ordinary and evoke powder, vintage florals and classic cosmetics. It is the note for those seeking an image that is elegant and understated, far removed from fruity profiles and “candy-like” effects.

It blends naturally into rich creams and butters, body oils and balms, premium soaps, hand care products, powders and make-up products inspired by the world of powder. In candles and home fragrances, it provides a clean and velvety trail, suited to boutique and niche lines. Being waxy and oil-soluble, it integrates well into oil phases, while in aqueous bases it requires a solubiliser.